Yakiniku, Shabu-Shabu and Sukiyaki: Cooking Wagyu the Japanese Way
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In Japan, most Wagyu isn't eaten as a big steak. It's sliced thin and cooked at the table in seconds. These three dishes are the best way to enjoy the whole animal, share with friends, and make a little Wagyu go a long way.
First: how to slice Wagyu thin at home
- Thaw the pack in the fridge until it is just soft enough to cut but still very cold and firm. Partly frozen meat is far easier to slice.
- Use your sharpest, longest knife. Cut across the grain.
- Yakiniku: slices or bite-size pieces 3 to 5mm thick.
- Sukiyaki: 2 to 3mm thick.
- Shabu-shabu: as thin as you can, 1 to 2mm.
- Lay slices on a cold plate, cover, and keep in the fridge until you cook. Cook within the day.
Yakiniku (焼肉): Japanese barbecue
Best cuts: short rib & plate, chuck rib, chuck roll, rump, knuckle.
You need: a tabletop grill, a griddle pan or a cast-iron plate. Allow 150 to 200g per person across two or three cuts.
- Heat the grill until very hot. Rub with a piece of fat.
- Cook a few pieces at a time: 10 to 30 seconds per side, until just browned with a pink centre.
- Eat each piece straight off the grill.
- Start with the leaner cuts with just salt and lemon, then move to richer, marinated cuts.
Quick yakiniku sauce (tare): 4 tbsp soy sauce, 2 tbsp mirin, 1 tbsp sake, 1 tbsp sugar, 1 tsp toasted sesame oil, 1 small grated garlic clove, 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds. Warm gently until the sugar dissolves. Use as a dip, or toss richer cuts in it for 10 minutes before grilling.
Serve with: rice, lettuce leaves to wrap, kimchi, grilled onions, peppers and mushrooms.
Shabu-shabu (しゃぶしゃぶ): the gentle hotpot
Best cuts: top round, chuck roll, neck, sirloin.
You need: a wide pot on a portable hob in the middle of the table. Allow 120 to 150g of beef per person.
- Make a light broth: soak a 10cm piece of kombu (kelp) in 1.5 litres of water for 30 minutes, then heat until just below a boil and remove the kombu.
- Simmer tofu, Chinese leaf, shiitake, enoki, spring onions and carrot in the broth.
- Each person picks up a slice of beef with chopsticks and swishes it in the simmering broth for 5 to 10 seconds, until it just turns pink-brown. The name comes from the "shabu-shabu" swishing sound.
- Dip in sauce and eat at once.
- Skim off foam as you go. At the end, add cooked udon or rice to the rich broth.
Sauces: ponzu (citrus soy) with grated daikon and spring onion, and a creamy sesame (goma) sauce. Both are easy to buy from Japanese grocers.
Sukiyaki (すき焼き): the sweet, savoury hotpot
Best cuts: sirloin, chuck roll, bottom round, top round.
Sauce (warishita): 100ml soy sauce, 100ml mirin, 50ml sake, 2 tbsp sugar, 100ml water. Heat until the sugar dissolves.
There are two classic styles:
- Kansai style (Osaka, Kobe): melt a piece of beef fat in a shallow cast-iron pan. Sear the beef slices, sprinkle with a little sugar, then add a splash of soy. Eat the beef first, then add vegetables and a little sauce.
- Kanto style (Tokyo): pour the warishita into the pan first, bring to a simmer, then cook the beef and vegetables in it.
Add: tofu, spring onions, shiitake, enoki, Chinese leaf, shirataki noodles.
The egg dip: traditionally each cooked slice is dipped in beaten raw egg, which softens the saltiness and makes the beef silky. In the UK, use British Lion-stamped eggs, which the Food Standards Agency advises are safe to eat raw or lightly cooked. Leave it out if you prefer.
Planning a Wagyu night for friends
- Pick one dish, two or three cuts, and plenty of vegetables, rice and pickles.
- Mix grades: A4 for the bulk, a little A5 as the highlight. See A4 vs A5.
- For quantities, see how much Wagyu per person.